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As our hybrid sport progresses beyond the initial grasp of the subject so does the choice when picking a kayak to fish from. In the early infancies the kayak models adaptable to fishing were few and far between, these days however it can seem a little daunting for the uneducated. Therefore KFA have a few pointers we would like to educate readers on, it just makes plain sense to help clarify things further.
You may be an active individual that regularly pushes your body’s boundaries, or you may be someone looking to regain some fitness and recuperate old wounds. Whatever the reason, Kayak Fishing does not and will not discriminate against you. With 52 weekends a year it’s an activity that even the most dedicated fulltime workers can enjoy. Within the space of a few months not only will you notice some categorical health benefits but your rank of pure amateur status and knowledge on the subject will platform you with your peers… After all, this mighty amalgam sport is still growing.
Where you plan to fish (Key is percentage):
Being realistic with where you plan to fish most of the time will help your final decision be a wise one. Before approaching the thought of purchasing keep in mind what brought you the idea in the first place. Did you spy someone flicking the flats of your local estuary or departing next to the boat ramp at your favourite haunt? Is this where you want to fish or do you have much grander, offshore style plans in mind?
If you’re sticking to small creeks & flat water a smaller plastic kayak like a Perception ‘Minnow’ / Australis ‘Bass’ around the 3 metre mark might be the best choice. Its shorter length will allow you to turn easily in tight corners, like amongst mangroves. A smaller kayak will also weigh less, allowing you to portage (Carry) the kayak cross county to get to rarely fished destinations.
For example, if you have a creek that is broken in to pools or with trees across it the kayak can easily be lifted out and ported around the obstruction. The advantage of a plastic kayak in these situations is it will take the bumps and scratches without you giving a second thought; this is no place for a South African Fishing Ski!
That’s not to say the fibreglass Skis don’t have there recompense too, much of Australia’s surrounding coastline is subject to swell (With little or no shelter). While access to the sandy beach is easy enough for any kayak, surf launching comes into its own a Ski. The ability to stow long rods, fish finders and miscellaneous gear below deck before judging distance between sets puts you in a league of your own.
The wave hopping performance is only really comparable to the Rescue board features of our strongest beach icon, the famous Surf Lifesavers. Punching over waves rather than through, surfing waves in on return rather than avoiding them and skeg style tracking are just a few benefits that typify South African / Australian coastal conditions.
Key benefits of the right choice (Examples over wrong):
There are two types of Kayaks that are commonly used to fish from, the S.O.T (Sit on top) and the S.I.K (Sit in Kayak). Either are available in both Polyethylene (Plastic) or Fibreglass (Kevlar/Carbon too), all offering ample opportunities to get you fishing and on the water. Once again, depending on what body of H20 you wish to fish there are models, makes and finishes to suit almost everyone (Observe your waterways).
S.O.T Polyethylene Kayaks allow for exaggerated freedom of movement on the deck, providing the ability to move around and mount or dismount simply. Being of a draining deck design, any water taken onboard simply self bails through gravity fed scupper holes that exit below the waterline (A must for S.O.T models). They are often heavier and wider than a S.I.K, making use of storage features like tank wells above deck rather than below. The only real downside to a S.O.T is the users exposure to the elements, be it sun, rain or wind your uncovered lower body is often left to the weathers mercy.
S.I.K Polyethylene Kayaks provide shelter below deck, removing the sun off your legs and providing a cockpit rim to install watertight skirts. Sitting slightly below the waterline this style of Kayak fits in the more recreational category. The bigger, more open cockpits whilst providing ample storage room prohibit sideways movement below deck. A S.I.K designed for fishing will be slightly wider than a traditional Sea Kayak, adding stability at slower speeds while incorporating many of its design features (Screw lid storage, Bulkheads).
The only real downside to a S.I.K is its ability to recover from capsizes, water tight bulkheads will provide vessel flotation but a lack of scupper holes will mean your Kayak is much harder to recover from a swamped position (A manual bilge pump is a must).
Certain hull shapes, materials, seated positions and ultimately differing models all have a place in the scheme of things. Smaller sit in kayaks (SIK) suited to skinny water (Tidal creeks, freshwater rivers) have certain abilities that shine in areas that a large sit on top (SOT) fibreglass fishing ski (Purpose built for offshore angling) would struggle. It’s a vice versa scenario, the fibreglass ski excels in surf launches and totally eclipses anything the ‘Minnow’ style has to offer in the same situation (Be that safety, fishing ability or your inherent nous whilst using).
Usability / Portability (Roof racks, trailer options, storage):
One of the first and flawed mistakes many make when purchasing a kayak is including ‘Loved ones’ initial interest as a binding marriage. While I am sure there are plenty of exceptions to the rule (Including one made by yours truly) you can often find yourself without a full time dedicated fishing partner. Some tandem kayaks are made to be fished one up adequately but many have there drawbacks when venturing out solo. It’s worth noting tandem kayaks often weigh in excess of 30 kilograms and are elongated and difficult to transport and handle alone.
It’s at this stage that portability and hull weight issue really comes to the forefront of your decision, was it the right one? Most kayaks are transported on roof racks (either permanent or removable soft racks) or on purpose built trailers. Loading your chosen craft onto your cars roof is cumbersome at the best of times; if you can’t lift it up there comfortably it may start to gather dust in your garage (Unless you go the more expensive trailer option). Take into consideration your health, strength, ability when studying a kayaks advertised weight (Can you lift it alone easily?) and guess an average additional tackle load.
Another important consideration is kayak storage off the water. Depending on your states climate you may have the option of storing safely undercover (Avoiding harmful U.V rays), or be limited to a housed solution inside your garage (Avoiding climate altogether). Both choices have advantages, most Kayak manufacturers recommend storing your yak on its side (Usually the strongest point), standing on its stern vertically (Not an option for most) or on its deck facing down (Hull side up).
There are ways to cradle your kayak hull down; pulley sling systems that stow your kayak to your garage roof using cleats are quite popular (Allowing lowering onto your transport of choice and freeing valuable floor space). Brands like ‘Aquaracks’ offer side mountable padded choices on solid walls but rest assured, some of the best Kayak racks around are D.I.Y styled jobs tailored to ANY available space.
Kayaks attributes (Weight class, hull shape etc):
Don’t fully discount weight as being something best avoided though, some of the heavier kayaks on the market are also some of the most buoyant and feature packed. Most kayaks suited for fishing sit in a bare hull weight class range that varies from approximately 18kgs (Perception ‘Minnow’) to a whopping 39.9kgs (Hobie ‘Pro Angler’). User weight capacity is often reflected with the above; while the ‘Pro Angler’ may sound heavy initially, bear in mind it has massive payload of 272kg (More than enough to load to the hilt) compared to the 150kgs of the ‘Minnow’ and has built in features to help you get it on and off its travelling platform.
Your kayaks shape should help determine what limits you will have while using it. Some are long and sleek while others have platform ability, the former helping cut through choppier, wind swept waters quickly with the latter promoting a more deliberate and steady advance. Your tracking facility (Ability to move in a straight line) is based on active keel and various channelled shaping’s under your kayak (Unless a rudder is fitted).
Most ‘Minnow’ style kayaks lack an ample keel but in the standard quieter water where they excel it’s not as much of a need as larger kayaks in open water require. Some larger kayaks track very well but could do with a rudder when a change in the weather hits. Rudders improve situations that can sometimes be vexing, that’s not to say each to their own though, you may just end up getting a little frustrated and rue your preliminary choice. Luckily this matters least as most manufacturers offer them as an optional extra (If not built in a package), allowing your last frown to quickly turn upside down next trip.
One thing I have learnt over the years is when something does go awry Kayak Fishing, things can snowball quite quickly. A tangled lure, a change in swell, a drift under some low lying branches or some lost gear overboard. Add to this a feisty hooked fish and sudden wind gusts and trouble can start brewing. Luckily these are choice ridden situations that can be avoided with familiarity and repetitive exposure to similar situations; often the only worst case scenario you will encounter is that you fall in the water and get wet. What happens next depends on preparation, location, elements and above all any physical and mental strength remaining to complete a safe journey back to the departure point.
Advanced options (Mirage drive / Electric motor / D.I.Y):
Once understanding of the basic principals is achieved, your choices are then expanded ten fold. Welcome to the world of cutting edge technology were relaxation, manoeuvrability and specification come into play. While most kayaks are made to be propelled with upper body movement and a paddle stroke, companies like Hobie, Viking, Stealth Drive and Torqeedo offer compelling alternatives to the more traditional technique of paddling whilst fishing.
Much has been written about the Hobie Mirage Drive phenomenon, pedalling with your feet essentially provides a ‘Hands free fishing’ experience. The Mirage Drive is akin to the motion of a Penguin propelling forward, it offers a leg work out over shoulder (Handy if upper body injuries persist) and is extremely user friendly. Hobiecat has recently announced a partnership with Neah Power Systems Inc to develop green friendly fuel cells for use in the Hobiecat boat range, complementing their water world.
Only time will tell if this technology is applied into their expanding kayak array of hulls and accessories, an exciting prospect nether the less.
While most brands top models come pre kitted with fishing packages (Optional extra or not) they are not immune from the occasional modification. The D.I.Y option of Kayak Fishing is what gets many of us on the water in the first place. ‘Pimping your Kayak’ is an art form that deserves a whole article written on the subject, suffice to say no goal or idea is stupid until proven fruitless. Some great examples departing the often expensive OEM fields are the D.I.Y sounder mounts (Using pre existing points), Rocket Launcher PVC monstrosities (Using pre existing rear rod holders) and homemade sailing kits (Opening another growing dimension).
Taking the plunge (Get on the water):
Its worth approaching your local kayak dealers with an enquiry about a test paddle decision, many have demonstration days with an option to try many different kayaks. Depending on your areas demographic and available waterways this shouldn’t be an issue, especially when all dealers want to see a successful, correct purchase. Certain dealers offer services to purchase and install additional items of choice for a small fee (Eg: Rod holders) and generally offer free, experienced advice worth taking onboard.
Also, try meeting up with an organised group of individuals (Like AKFF members) in your local or surrounding area and suss out differing models and brands, whilst participating be sure to listen and ask for firsthand user feedback. While science and marketing can help push your foot through the door, I find information gathered straight ‘From the horse's mouth’ equally important, predominantly when coupled in good numbers. Versatility is important, but again try being realistic about what you're going to do from a kayak. If you're doing 30 estuary trips a year and only a small number of offshore sorties, buy something more estuary suitable.
In conclusion there's really no such thing as a bad fishing kayak; the fish species themselves don't really care whether you're in a $4000 beast or a $200 garage sale clunker. Past and present ancient civilizations like the arctic Inuit in their seal-skin kayaks and the Aborigines in their bark canoes have proven that budget isn’t important (Beyond reasonable doubt). A kayak suitable for fishing is all about your comfort on the water in your chosen craft, get the one that feels right on the water and the fish will look after themselves (And in turn, you in the long run).
